Insider tips
For general information
Contact the Argentina Secretariat of Tourism, 011-54-11-4312-2232, info@turismo.gov.ar, www.turismo.gov.ar.
Tours
It’s easy to find a personal guide in Argentina’s cities. Prices for guide services average $40 per hour; packages for full days and longer often work out to less.
My knowledgeable Buenos Aires guide, Silvie Gonzalez Verocay, is a multilingual art graduate. Whether she is blending historic detail over an espresso in a chic café or leading the charge through the shops of San Telmo, her English is infused with the romantic idiosyncrasies of both Spanish and French. Argentine Voyages Specialisés by Silvia Gonzalez Verocay, 011-54-11-5137-7944, avoyages2@netben.com.ar.
Mendoza: Laura Yofe shepherded me to, through and from the wineries around Mendoza, pointed out the best shoe and dress shops, and spoke impeccable English. Plus, she knows Argentinian wines inside out, which is invaluable when faced with a plethora of bottles. Southernmost Tailor-Made Journeys: 011-54-261-498-4460 or 011-54-261-498-4460 (cell), laura.yofe (Skype), lyofe@smjourneys.com, smjourneys.com.
From home: Trufflepig Travel does all the legwork so you can just enjoy. Argentina expert Jack Dancy can make anything happen and thrives on getting off the beaten track — camping on the icefields in Patagonia, weaving with traditional looms in Salta, learning Argentinian revolutionary songs in Tucuman, or heading out on a horse safari in the Salta Andes. 58 Stewart St., Suite 401, Toronto. 416-628-1272, curious@trufflepig.com, trufflepig.com.
Sleeps
Buenos Aires: The Palacio Duhau–Park Hyatt is a former palace in the centre of town with all the princess trimmings, including its own art gallery and full-service spa. Try the unique collection of locally made cheeses kept in a glass cooler near the wine bar. Avenida Alvear 1661. 011-54-11-5171-1234, buenosaires.park@hyattintl.com, buenosaires.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels.
Mendoza: Since it was so easy to move from one Park Hyatt to another, I did. In Mendoza, their hotel is on an avenue lined with plane trees (think Paris) and across from a park where I enjoyed a walk each evening amidst young lovers in classic Argentinian embrace (as in, close and tight). Park Hyatt Mendoza, Chile 1124. 011-54- 261-441-1234, phm-reservas@hyattintl.com, mendoza.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels.
Eats
Buenos Aires: Built in a former warehouse, Olsen is a hip restaurant in the barrio of Palermo. It’s celebrated for the bar’s list of creative cocktails as well as gourmet seafood cuisine. Request a patio table: people watching is de rigueur. Gorriti 5870. 011-54-11-4776-7677.
Situated in lively San Telmo, La Brigada’s walls overflow with gaucho memorabilia, while the menu boasts plenty of tender beef. This is typical countryside cuisine at its best. Estados Unidos 465. 011-54-11-4361-5557.
Cabaña las Lilas is the city’s best-known parrilla, or grill house, serving beef from the restaurant’s private estancia or ranch. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516. 011-54-11-4313-1336, laslilas.com.
Mendoza: Consistently ranked among the country’s top restaurants, chef Francis Mallmann’s 1884 is located in the historic Bodega Escorihuela winery. The menu changes every two weeks. Try the lamb from Tupungato, homemade crème caramel with dulce de leche and, if they’re available, the empanadas. Leave time for the 50-page wine list. Belgrano 1188. 011-54-261-424-2698, escorihuela.com.ar.
There are menus for vegetarians at all eateries. A three-course meal including rack of lamb and a nice bottle of wine will only set you back about $40 (when the Canadian dollar is high) at one of the best restaurants in either town.
Shops
Buenos Aires: Cecilia Gadea: Ugarteche 3330. 011-54-11-4801-4163, info@ceciliagadea.com, ceciliagadea.com.
Celedonio: Galeria Promenade, Av. Alvear 1883, Recoleta. 011-54-11-4809-0046, celedonio@celedonio.com.ar, celedonio.net.
Mendoza: Shops here are usually less expensive than Buenos Aires. Take a peek at Ricky Sarkany, an Argentinian staple. Bold, trendsetting styles have been spotted on the likes of Salma Hayek, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss. pet@rickysarkany.com, rickysarkany.com.
Mendoza Plaza Shopping: Av. Acceso Este 3280, Guaymallén, 011-54-261-449-0100, mendozaplazashopping.com.ar.
Feria Artesanal: This handicraft market is in the Plaza Independencia. Best buys are leather belts, bags, wallets and handmade jewellery. A leafy pedestrian walkway called Paseo Sarmiento is lined with lots of fun, affordable shops and restaurants. Open 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Masters of Food and Wine, South America
This year, from Feb. 14 to 17, Mendoza virtually vibrates with its second annual celebration. Chefs from Europe, Asia, North and South America join an international array of sommeliers in the preparation of intimate lunches, dinners and culinary demonstrations, some of which take place right in the vineyards. Wine tastings pair Mendoza’s best with fare created uniquely for the occasion. mfandw.com.ar.
Tango
Fabrizio Forti, Chacabuco 1181, San Telmo, Buenos Aires. 011-54-11-4300-4394, fabrizio.forti@gmail.com, accommodationbsas.com.ar/tango.htm. You can also check him out on YouTube.
Esquina Carlos Gardel: This is one of the better tango shows. Carlos Gardel 3200, Buenos Aires. 011-54-11-4867-6363 info@esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar,squ einacarlosgardel.com.ar.
For an inspiring look at travel in Argentina, check out Argentina: Easy and affordable
This article originally appeared in the February 2008 issue of More
