The dance
I had also come to Argentina to tango. I longed to feel the passionate tremor of the moves born in Buenos Aires’ brothels at the end of the 19th century. Porteños, the natives of Buenos Aires, are so devoted to the dance, they stage an annual “Tango Day” on Dec. 11. Unable to attend that, I settled for new dancing shoes and a tango lesson. With his signature auburn ponytail, Fabrizio Forti is renowned as one of the city’s best teachers and performers. In his tiny private studio in San Telmo, students from all over the world learn to implement his playful style and trademark embrace. Passion is free.
The sights
My final excursion in Buenos Aires was to the city’s famous 13-acre La Recoleta Cemetery. Rivalled only by Paris’s Père-Lachaise, the elegance of its mausoleums is more reminiscent of palaces than tombs. I was mesmerized by the lifelike statues, and stone plaques, each carved with the name of one of the more than 6,400 Argentinians entombed there. And, like everyone else, I got lost. No matter, all paths eventually flow to the final resting place of Eva Perón. Although she died more than a half century ago, her tomb remains one of the most popular places in Argentina.
Bidding adiós to Buenos Aires wasn’t easy (and not just because of the overweight baggage). The city had fanned the flames of a romance I had once had with Europe. As with all memorable long-distance affairs, I vowed to return.
The wine
Mendoza is perfectly situated at the epicentre of the Argentinian wine-growing region. Perfect because Argentinian wine is among the finest in the world, and some of the best vintages never make it out of the country. After much quaffing at home, I was ready to visit some favourite vineyards, but needed help. I contacted Laura Yofe, a guide who equals Silvie not only in her knowledge of everything oenophilic but of fashion too. Laura set up tastings, ferried me to the vineyards and spirited me back to the hotel, all the while filling my head with wine miscellany. And, like Silvie, she was an expert when it came to buying; I thus added a couple of bottles of Malbec to the purchases accumulating in my suitcase.
After I arrived home, it wasn’t long before my husband mentioned how much he would like to join me next time, hinting he might make an excellent tango partner. I promised to take his proposal under consideration, explaining that every once in a while, a girl simply has to head out on her own. Argentina just makes it so easy.
Just one last suggestion: Pack an extra duffle.
For the inside goods on travelling, dancing and shopping in Argentina, check out The insider's Argentina
This article originally appeared in the February 2008 issue of More
